CAVE FISH BIRDS bIRDHOUSE INSTALLATION AND CARE GUIDE

Congratulations on being the owner of a new, one-of-a-kind Cave Fish Birds birdhouse!  We are grateful to have earned your business, and eager to ensure you get the most out of it.  This guide provides an overview on the placement, installation and care of your birdhouse.  I trust you’ll find it helpful but, if it doesn’t answer all your questions, please feel free to reach out and I’ll be happy to help!

PLACEMENT OF YOUR BIRDHOUSE

There are many variables that will impact the suitability of potential nesting sites.  The first is that it may simply take some time for birds to discover your birdhouse, so don’t be discouraged if it goes unused the first year.  The following considerations will help you optimize the placement of your new birdhouse.      

Location

  • Nesting birds prefer an area with minimal foot traffic, for obvious reasons.

  • Nesting birds are territorial and so may avoid houses that are located too close to each other (and multi-residence houses).

  • Wrens will use a hanging birdhouse, but most other birds will avoid them.

  • Your birdhouse should be mounted, ideally, between 6 and 10 feet above the ground.

  • Openings oriented to face away from prevailing winds will provide the inhabitants more protection in bad weather.

  • Placing your birdhouse in a natural area away from densely-populated locations will help to discourage birds such as House Sparrows and European Starlings, which are widely considered to be less desirable tenants, and are known to comfortably nest nearer to humans.

  • If you have concerns about predators, such as cats, raccoons, opossums, and/or snakes, avoid mounting your birdhouse where they might gain easy access, such as on a fence or under/near overhanging branches. (More on predators, below.)

  • All that said, above all else, be sure to select a location where you can easily view and enjoy your new birdhouse, the birds will understand! 

Timing

For the best chance of first-year occupation, your birdhouse should be installed well before the breeding season begins.  In the south, that means by February and, in northern regions, by mid to late March.

Your Cave Fish Birds birdhouse is made to withstand harsh weather and can remain outside year-round.   That does mean non-migrating birds will have a competitive advantage in the choice of suitable nesting sites in subsequent years, so you may want to consider plugging the entry hole of your birdhouse early in the breeding season until migratory birds are scheduled to return, thus increasing the chance of them finding it unoccupied.  If you do, please note that birds are known to use birdhouses as roost boxes for shelter from inclement weather, so don’t plug it year round.

Bird Feeders and Bird Baths

Birdhouses cater to a different clientele than bird feeders.  They provide shelter to cavity-nesting birds, which for the most part eat insects and berries instead of seeds.  Principal among seed eaters are the aforementioned House Sparrows, which are a highly successful invasive species in the U.S. that have spread to every corner of the country.  With an aggressive nature, they are often seen as less-desirable birds because they can crowd out native species, and they may carry diseases that can cause native bird populations to decline.  House Sparrows have even been reported to kill bluebirds over control of a nest box!  House Sparrows prefer smaller seeds like millet, cracked corn and milo, which are plentiful in many commercial wild bird seed mixes, so if you do feed birds these types of seeds, place seed feeders as far from birdhouses as is practical.  Alternately, limit feeder offerings to things House Sparrows typically do not prefer, such as striped sunflower seeds, Nyjer (thistle) seed for finches, and nectar for hummingbirds.    

All birds need fresh water for drinking and bathing, and a clean water source can make a yard even more attractive for nesting birds.  Birdbaths are an excellent way to ensure your tenants have plenty of water nearby and provide an excellent opportunity to observe the types of birds you are attracting to your yard.

 

Predators

Cave Fish Birds birdhouses are designed to deter predators.  Entry holes are 1 3/8” in diameter, the ideal size for most songbirds, yet small enough to keep larger birds out.  They are framed with hardwoods and/or feature deep, extended holes, to prevent squirrels and larger birds from enlarging them.  Entry holes are positioned 5” or more above the floor and, along with over-sized and slanted roofs, help to prevent raccoons and cats from reaching in to steal eggs, or worse…  

In areas of the country where snakes are common and known to prey on bird eggs, the best defense is to mount the birdhouse atop a pole on an oversized platform, away from trees with overhanging branches.

If you’re experiencing or are concerned about predation, you may want to consider a commercial predator guard.  We can help with a recommendation in regard to your specific situation if you wish, let us know!

INSTALLATION OF YOUR BIRDHOUSE

Rear-Hanging

Unless specifically noted in the description, your birdhouse comes with a metal Keyhole Hanger for mounting it against a vertical surface.  Depending on how far the roof of your birdhouse overhangs beyond the back of the bird box, the Keyhole Hanger may come affixed to a wood block that has been sized specifically for your birdhouse, to allow it to hang straight on vertical surface. 

To attach the block, remove the screw on the bottom of your birdhouse, then carefully pry open the door.  Because wood shrinks and expands, the door may at first seem to be stuck.  If you’re having difficulty persuading the door to open, drive the screw you just removed from the bottom of your birdhouse into bottom/center of the door to a depth of the 1/2” to 3/4”.  That will create a temporary handle that you can grasp to give you the “pull” necessary to persuade the door to open.  (Don’t be concerned by the hole that remains once you remove this temporary handle, it is of no consequence, and may even close up.)

Once the door is open, you’ll see four, countersunk holes on its inside surface.  Insert and securely tighten the four included screws through these holes, from the inside of the birdhouse into the wood block.  You can use wood glue or white glue (e.g. Elmer’s Glue) to further secure the block if you wish, but it is not necessary.  

Once that’s done and the door is again closed securely, or if your birdhouse came with the Keyhole Hanger already attached, drive the included 1 5/8” self-tapping screw into the wall/post/fence at the location you’ve selected to hang your birdhouse, until just the head of the screw protrudes by only 1/8” or so.  With some minor in-or-out adjustment, the Keyhole Hanger (now attached to the birdhouse) will be able to slide firmly onto the screw to securely mount your birdhouse.

Post-Mount

If you selected this optional mounting hardware, you’ll find two “L” brackets with holes on one arm, and slots on the other.  Using the provided ½” screws, attach the slotted arm of both brackets into the predrilled holes in the bottom your birdhouse.  For now, tighten them enough that they can barely slide back-and-forth, then, with both brackets facing the rear of the birdhouse, placehold the birdhouse in the desired spot to determine how far forward or back you want it to sit.  With that decided, tighten the slotted arms first, then affix your birdhouse securely to the post with the provided 1 5/8” screws.

Hang-by-Wire

Hanging a birdhouse by wire is a popular option for covered porch locations, or if choose to hang it indoors as home décor/art piece.  Our Hang-by-Wire option includes an appropriate length of picture wire, and two eyelets that you can screw into the roof or eaves of your birdhouse, which will allow it to be hung from a ceiling hook or branch, or what have you.  As noted elsewhere, hanging a birdhouse by wire outside may discourage occupancy as, with the exception of Finches, most birds prefer a more stable home.

CARING FOR YOUR BIRDHOUSE

Annual Clean-Out

Cave Fish Birds birdhouses are designed to be virtually maintenance free, with the single exception of a yearly “clean-out” after a nesting brood has flown the coop (autumn is ideal), which is highly recommended.  There is a single, phillips-head screw on the bottom of the birdhouse that, when removed, will allow the back to swing open.  Simply pull out as much of the used nesting material as you can with your (gloved) hand, and you’re good to go for next year!  

The “Bird Box” 

The “bird box” portion of your birdhouse (where the birds live) is made from rough-sawn Cedar, which has natural properties that will prevent rotting and insect damage.  Birds prefer as “natural” a setting as possible, so no paint or finishes have been applied to the interior, nor should they ever be.

The Effects of Weather

The exterior of your birdhouse has been treated with two or more coats of Helmsman Satin Spar Urethane, a very durable, outdoor finish that protects against damage by sunlight (UV light), water and/or temperature changes.  That said, wood exposed to weather will change its appearance over time and once left outside, your birdhouse will weather and eventually require refinishing if you want to maintain its original appearance for as long as possible.  The good news is that weathering will add to the home's natural charm without compromising its function, so refinishing is not required.

Some front panels and other wood features added to your birdhouse are made from exotic or reclaimed woods, and will age differently than Cedar, either eventually darkening or fading.  Some may also likely prove less resistant to decay than Cedar in the long run.  All added features are firmly affixed with extremely durable (TiteBond 3) waterproof wood glue and, with rare exception due to shape or size, tacked in place with 32-gauge brads, which will prevent features from separating from the birdhouse in the very unlikely event that the glue fails.

How long a finish lasts depends on a number of factors including the overall harshness of the climate where it will be hung, and how directly exposed it is to the elements, so installation in a sheltered area or corner is a consideration.  If you wish, you can recoat the exterior with any exterior, marine-rated urethane.  We prefer Helmsman Satin Spar Urethane because it is highly rated and the least shiny/glossy spar urethane finish we’ve found but, again, that’s a personal choice.